„I think if you don't push yourself to the limit, you don't live your life to the full.”
Oswald Oelz comes from Vorarlberg and has made a name for himself as a mountaineer, expedition physician and altitude physician since the seventies. His two passions, the extreme mountaineering and internal medicine, characterize his biography as two complementary poles. One of his main research areas was altitude sickness. In 1978, Oelz was the doctor of the expedition, where Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler were the first people to climb Mount Everest without additional oxygen. Even high-altitude doctors had previously thought this was hardly possible. As a mountaineer he stood at the peak of the Seven Summits and defeated the three great north faces of the Alps (Matterhorn, Eiger, Walkerpfeiler of the Grandes Jorasses). Today Oswald Oelz lives near Hinwil (CH) the hobby farmer breeds sheep and works as an author, lecturer and guide for medical questions. Oswald Oelz was also involved in various rescue operations: "I remember the spectacular mountain rescue campaigns as special highlights in my life. The drama of such moment and the possibility of doing something sensible at the same time mobilizes unimaginable forces and leads to an actual Natural High, "says Oelz. The rescue of Peter Hillary, 1979 in the southwestern wall of the Ama Dablam, the doctor calls "my absolutely best Adrenalintrip". "Reinhold Messner and I would never have entered this wall if these New Zealanders had not been seriously injured in half the wall, alone, helpless. Climbing in this rock and ice blast was one of the most intense holistic experiences I have ever had." Meet Oswald Oelz at the world premiere of the movie "Der heilige Berg" on Monday, October 9, 2017.
AMA DABLAM - THE HOLY MOUNTAIN