Nature-conscious top mountain climber – Steve House
This American climber is an uncompromising representative of a pure Alpine style, also in high-altitude mountain climbing. Therefore, he wants to further develop Alpinism; sustainable and clean mountain sport is particularly important to the qualified ecologist.
Outstanding
Steve House was uncomfortable with the honour of being described as »the best high-altitude climber in the world today« by Reinhold Messner. The process and the journey of mountain sport have always been more important to him than reaching the goal. Steve favours a fast and clean style, which at the same time helps him not to be exposed to the dangers of the mountains for too long. He has repeatedly proven that he has lived up to his claim. In 2000, with Mark Twight and Scott Backes, he succeeded in completing a non-stop ascent of the direct »Slovak-Route« on the south face of Mount McKinley, or Denali, (5.9 X M6 WI6+, 2745 m) in 60 hours. The next speed climb then followed in 2002; with Rolando Garibotti, House climbed the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker in Alaska in 25 hours (descent in 20 hours). In 2004, Steve climbed alone and in only 26 hours he climbed non-stop on a new route on the south-west face of K7 (VI, 5.10a, M6, A2, 80°, 2400 m) in Karakoram. In only the second ascent of K7, House did not place any bolts nor did he use fixed ropes.
Golden axe
A particular highlight followed in 2006. Steve House received, together with Vince Anderson, the Piolet d’Or for the first Alpine-style climb of the Rupal face of the Nanga Parbat, which he completed in only seven days (M5 X, 5.9, WI4, 4100 m). In 2007, House was once again in the Karakoram. With Marko Prezelj and Vince Anderson, he was the first to climb K7 West (6858 m). Finally, in 2008, he opened up a new route in the Canadian Rockies with Vince Anderson. In three days they climbed the »House-Anderson« (WI5+ M8 R/X, 1000 m) route on the north face of Mount Alberta (3619 m).
Qualified ambassador
Steve is the seventh American since 1999 to gain the qualification of internationally certified mountain guide. In the same year, he started his work as an ambassador for the clothing label Patagonia, where he works on development, marketing and testing. In 1995, House graduated from college in ecology and since then he has lived as a self-employed guide in Central Oregon.
Source: Der Bergsteiger
Website of Steve House:
www.stevehouse.net
