Breaking new ground, preferably above 8000 meters – Simone Moro
The Italian-born climber (born in 1967) is an outstanding representative of the »young« extreme mountain climber generation. However, successes are not the only things that count for the friendly all-round-Alpinist: in 2001, he interrupted his attempt at Lhotse at over 8000 meters in order to save a young British mountain climber. Moro’s show of solidarity was exemplary and won him numerous commendations. Indeed, he was awarded the »Fair Play Pierre de Cubertin«prize by UNESCO for his actions.
Aiming high
His father encouraged his son’s passion at an early age. Simone made his first attempts at climbing when he was 13 years old in the Bergamo Alps. It is no wonder that he became an athlete in the Italian national climbing team from 1985 to 1992 and then later became its coach. Even today, Simone practices his climbing skills in the 8a to 8b+ range as the basis for his expeditions. However, he did not become famous for his rock climbing or for his mixed climbing (up to M11) successes – but rather for his successes as a high-altitude mountain climber. In 1992, although he was not to reach the summit of Everest in his first expedition, the very next year he did succeed in the first winter ascent of Aconcagua (6962 m) in only 13 hours. In 1996, he climbed the »Super-Canaleta« on the Fitz Roy in the Alpine style in only 25 hours from the base camp to the summit and back. And in 2000, he finally stood on the summit of Everest. Today Simone can look back on ten winter expeditions: in 2005, he caused a sensation with the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027 m) across the south face with Piotr Morawski. In 2006, he successfully completed the south-north traverse of Mount Everest alone and in 2009 came his most recent sensation: the first winter ascent of Makalu (8463 m) in the Alpine style with Denis Urubko. This was an achievement, which Alpinists had been trying to achieve in vain for 30 years. In 2010 he was for the 4th time on the summit of the Everest!
Sport and mountains
Simone Moro lives in Ponteranica (Province of Bergamo). The mountain guide successfully graduated in sports studies from the University of Bergamo in 2003, gaining top marks. He wrote his dissertation on »Alpinism at extreme altitudes«. As well as mountain climbing, Moro keeps himself busy by parachuting and in the spring of 2009 he also gained his helicopter pilot’s licence in California.
Website of Simone Moro:
www.simonemoro.com
