Passionate alpinist and author of more than 50 books
He’s born in Genoa on the 9th of September 1946 and lives and works today at Milan. Alessandro Gogna is a renowned expert in the tension between tourism and environment of the Alps. The historian of alpinism, mountain guide and worldwide known mountaineer has managed at least 250 first ascents in the Alp and Apennines. Including the north-eastern face of the Scarason (1967), the Zmuttgrat of the Matterhorn (1969), the south-route of the Marmolada (1970), four roads to the Pale of San Lucano (1970-74), the direct route to the Cima of Terranova (1971), the south-route of the Grandes Jorasses (1972), the north-face of the Aiguille de Leschaux (1972), the north-east angle of the Brenta Alta (1972) and Liss dal Pesgunfi in Val Masino (1984).
He made the winter climb route of Cassin on the north-eastern face of the Pizzo cshaufel (1967-1968) and was the first winter climber of the spur of the Cassin on the Punta Walker in Grandes Joursasses (1968) and the route of the French on the north–east face of Ounta Gnifetti (1969). Alessandro took place on historical attempts in the Himalaya (Annapurna, 1973 und Lhotse, 1975). 1979 he became part of the conquering Expedition to the K2 by the Abruzzi Route. (4th ascent of the K2).
Author of more than 50 books
Founder, current warrantor and secretary of Mountain Wilderness from 1988 until 1991. Alessandro Gogna, protagonist and representative of alpinism has written at least 50 books, including: Grandes Jorasses Sperone Walker (Tamari, 1969), Un alpinismo di ricerca (Dall'Oglio, 1975), K2 (De Agostini, 1980), Cento nuovi mattini (Zanichelli, 1981), La parete (Zanichelli, 1981), 100 pareti di ghiaccio nelle Alpi (mit Erich Vanis, Zanichelli, 1981), Mezzogiorno di pietra (Zanichelli, 1982), Rock Story (Melograno, 1983), Sentieri Verticali (Zanichelli, 1987), la serie di otto volumi illustrati I grandi spazi delle Alpi (mit anderen Autoren, Priuli Verlucca, 1995-2003), Mesolcina - Spluga (mit A. Recalcati, Guida Monti CAI-TCI, 1999), Le Sette Cime (Fabbri, 2006), Dolomiti e calcari di Nord-est (CDA&Vivalda, 2007), La verità obliqua di Severino Casara (mit Italo Zandonella Callegher, Priuli&Verlucca, 2009).
2007 he won the prize “Pelmo d’Oro” for his alpine career.
