What did the extreme alpinist Simone Moro feel when he decided, at above 8000m in Lhotse, to give up the summit in order to rescue a young English alpinist? Dr Iztok Tomazin, emergency physician and one of the best alpinists in the world, tells of his experiences of rescue operations in the Himalaya. What is the current status of Alpine Rescue in Pakistan and Nepal?

The race to conquer the 8000m mountains of Himalaya and the rough peaks in the Andes make front-page headlines. Even greater scrutiny occurs when there is a tragedy and an overseas rescue is mounted. Examples include Mt. Kenya 1970, Everest 1996, Nargat Parbat 2008 and Langtang Lirung 2009. Earlier this year, a helicopter rescue mission on Annapurna demonstrated technical success in the thin air of extreme altitude. But how do we satisfy the diametric problems of an acute and unfolding drama with a rescue mission at high altitude that takes days to mount? The solution seems as challenging as orienteering through the labyrinthine of alleyways in Marrakesh, where the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) adopted its Code of the Ethic of Expeditions in 1987. Subsequently, the International Commission of Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MEDCOM), representing over 30 countries, has tried giving an evidenced-based medicine answer.

There are two contrasting points of view: some mountain rescue organizations advocate a rapid response team, which though based in Europe, is ready to respond to a mountain rescue mission anywhere in the world at any time. Others question this, supporting instead the idea of initiating education and technical support to empower local alpinists and mountain rescuers.

World-leading scientists, alpinists and stakeholders will attend Rescue from the World’s Highest Mountains: exporting rescue operations or education? The day is part of the IMS – International Mountain Summit Congress and is organized in cooperation with EURAC Institute of Mountain Emergency Medicine.

The EURAC Institute of Mountain Emergency Medicine was founded in 2009. It is the first research institute in the field of Mountain Emergency Medicine, a specialist area within Emergency Medicine. Its main aim is to improve the diagnosis and treatment of casualties and acutely ill patients in mountainous regions by raising the standards of Alpine emergency medicine to an internationally recognized ‘evidence-based’ level. This will enable the development of a rational basis for the allocation of medical rescue services in mountainous areas.

Partner:
		EURAC – European Academy Contact person: Stephan Ortner - Director   Institute for alpine emergency medical aid Contact person: Dr. Hermann Brugger
		IKAR -CISA Internatinal commission for mountain rescue